MartinV56

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Sobre MartinV56

  • Rango
    Yo Soy El Foro !
  • Cumpleaños 18/02/56

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  • Género Male
  • Ubicación: Viendo llover en Macondo

Visitantes recientes en el perfil

6.269 visitas al perfil
  1. Don Paci de Cumpleaños!

    Un Grande Paci, Feliz Cumple!
  2. Desilucionado..

    desilusionado
  3. Desilucionado..

    https://rutracker.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4741091 Así de fácil
  4. HORNS

  5. Películas Coreanas

    A bittersweet life. https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/8619693/A_Bittersweet_Life_%282005%29_DC_1080p_x264_EN_NL_Subs_[Asian_Planet
  6. Películas Coreanas

    Chugyeogja https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/10816827/The_Chaser_%282008%29_720p_BrRip_x264_aac_[TuGAZx]
  7. Películas Coreanas

    A Hard Day https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/11332421/A_Hard_Day_%282014%29_DVDRip_XviD_AC3-Zoom
  8. Cual PRE.. Es " mejor"

    Conrad J,, Audio research, ear , son buenos previos valvulares, habìa un cary a la venta en los clasificados,
  9. Cual PRE.. Es " mejor"

    El Dared es integrado, no requiere pre alguno El Wyred es un amplificador de potencia clase D el cual requiere pre, me iría por un valvular (un conrad johnson le iría muy bien) En vinatge , Mcintosh C22, Pilot 215, 216), Marantz 7. Yamaha también tiene su etapa previa.
  10. Cual PRE.. Es " mejor"

    Muy Lindo amplificador, para ese hermoso bicho me iría por un John Curl JC2, disfruta ese excelente amplificador. Si quieres el sabor de tubos en la etapa previa, me iría por un Mcintosh C22. Y si puedes, ambos, es bueno tener previos valvulares y de estado sólido y uno juega con ellos al integrarlos a una etapa de potencia.
  11. Cual PRE.. Es " mejor"

    Mi pregunta, mejor para qué?, a que planta de potencia lo vas a conectar, SS, valvular? O lo piensas conectar a un amplificador integrado? Clase A, AB, clase D, clase B , De tu respuesta depende el mejor match de impedencias de cada uno de los componentes de tú cadena a la cual vas a conectar el pre, es necesario el uso un pre en tu cadena?
  12. Mi Primer Valvular con Parlantes.........

    https://web.archive.org/web/20131122141548/http://www.jumpjet.info/Pioneering-Wireless/eMagazines/VTV/VTV08.pdf Sobre el tubo EL-84
  13. EL PRIMER AMPLI A TUBO

    Ahi te dejé la hoja de servicio mantenimiento
  14. EL PRIMER AMPLI A TUBO

    Con muchísimo gusto Y si vas hacerle mantenimiento te dejo los pasos a seguir, el 1 es esencial cambiar el rectificador de selenio, IMPRESCiNDIBLE. INSISTO primero que nada cambiar el puente rectificador de selenio, la razón, si tiene fugas puede llevarse los trafos de salida. Muchos Scott he tenido y primer paso es ese para evitar dolores de cabeza. Espero que ese paso ya lo hayas efectuado. http://hhscott.com/cc/Rebuild_review.htm The following is from Bill Bittle, an avid collector of vintage tube hi-fi and frequent contributor to the Vintage H.H. Scott ListServer. Be sure and checkout Bill's complete Vintage Tube Audio web site. Here are Bill's recommendations for replacing amplifier components. (Thanks, B.B.!) 1. Replace the Selenium bias bridge rectifier with a newer Silicon full-wave bridge which have higher current ratings. They'll last longer and run cooler. This is cheap insurance, for without a stable bias supply you could risk loss of your output transformers and/or tubes! Don't forget to reduce the Bias (-) voltage with a suitable value dropping resistor, as silicon rectifiers are typically more efficient. 2. Replace the bias-supply filter electrolytic capacitor. 3. Replace the multi-section electrolytic power supply (high voltage) filter capacitors (not always necessary on tuners/receivers, but almost always necessary with vintage H.H. Scott integrated tube amps like the 222, 299, LK-48 and LK-72 series.) 4. Replace all the signal-path coupling and bypass capacitors in the preamp, phase-splitter and final output sections. 5. Replace the plate and cathode resistors in the in the amp's phase-splitter circuits (take the time to carefully match the values of all four resistors). 6. Replace the plate resistors in the phono and tone-control sections of the preamp. (Match the four resistors in the phono section and also match the four resistors in the tone-control section). 7. Replace the cathode bypass capacitors in the preamp section. (Usually only two caps which are two shared sections of one of the power supply filter multi-section, 'lytic caps). 8. Replace the capacitors that connect to the screen grid of the driver section of the phase-splitter tubes. Note: 4 uF, 250v in the 299C/D (amps using 6U8 tubes) or .22 uF in amps using the 7199 tubes. 9. Replace the carbon resistors in the power supply section. 10. Use a "known-good" set of the correct tubes. (Don't let a tube checker be the last word with respect to the quality of your tubes. Many times a tube will check good, but work bad in an amp. Most tube checkers do not run at the high voltages present in an amplifier. And most tube checkers have no way to test a tube for microphonics or subjective sound quality). Always finish by adjusting bias for lowest distortion and conducting a musical listening test. Vacuum Tube Valley has recently assembled various components for your particular vintage H.H. Scott gear, into what they call "Vintage Hi-FI Rebuilding or Tune-Up Kits." They also offer custom-assembled kits, upon consultation. Charlie Kittleson has assembled these kits in an effort to save you time and hassle in locating all the various bits and pieces Watch this web site for a step-by-step 299-B rebuild, using the VTV Tune-Up Kit, in the near future. VTV Tune-Up Kit prices and content vary by application, but include schematic and instructions, 1-Watt, metal-oxide, low-noise, carbon film plate resistors, high-quality 630V rating, Illinois Capacitor-MWR film caps, high-capacity electrolytics for bias, cathode bypass and/or filament supply, and silicon diodes for the negative bias and/or DC filament supply. Tubes and above-chassis, can-type electrolytic capacitors are not included in the kits, but are available from VTV, as well.